Monday, February 6, 2012

Upcoming Trip: Mount Timpanogos

UPDATE: 
Due to extremely poor avalanche conditions, this trip will be postponed. Spoke with a ranger from the Utah Avalanche Center and received some sage advice to attempt the west side of Timp during the ideal melt-freeze spring cycle on the mountain -- much firmer conditions, better climbing overall. As a backup, we'll be heading to Humphreys in northern AZ instead. Oh well. 

FROM BEFORE:
In less than two weeks, I will join three friends and put our mountaineering mettle to the test against Mount Timp's Everest Ridge.

 
(pic borrowed from summitpost.com)

Everest Ridge
  • Elevation Gain: 6,500’
  • RT Distance: 9.22 mi
  • TH Elevation: 5,349’
  • Summit Elev.: 11,749’
  • Rating: III, Class 4, Steep Snow
A month ago, the prospects of this climb were bleak and the Wasatch was starved for moisture with only traces of it's October / November faceted crystals remaining. Since then we've seen a resurgence in the typical northern Utah snowpack, bringing season totals closer to expectation. Herein lies the issue. Five to ten feet of fresh, wet snowpack has now cemented itself atop the aforementioned 2011 facet layers. The cohesion of everything new is great for a solid foundation, however, even this foundation could slide since it's essentially resting on what we should think of as tiny ball bearings. I've been feverishly scoping the avy rose every morning, hoping for more yellow, and now more green to inherit the majority of its pie slices.
Luckily for us, our intended route lies on a predominantly southwest ridge. Until we actually get there, we can only hope for stellar conditions both with the weather and the snowpack itself. Regardless of what comes to fruition as far as our plans are concerned, I cannot wait to get on that ridge.

Saturday, February 4, 2012

Climbing the Hand in the Superstitions, AZ - Feb 4, 2012

My friend Ace and I set out on a Saturday to tackle the 3-pitch gem of the Superstitions known as the Hand or Praying Hands. Although it consists of relatively simple moves the whole way, the exposure seen from both sides of this arête is overwhelming at times. Rope management is a plus on this narrow pinnacle with zero real estate. It's definitely an exciting climb from start to finish.

 "Razors Edge" - 3 pitches, grade II, 5.6
(Left Pic borrowed from HikeAZ) [ Info from climbing.com ]
Sport route with supplemented trad gear if needed. 
We used 2 friends, Size 1 and 0.5 C4 Camelots to reduce runout on two pitches.
First pitch was mostly class 4 and we free-soloed up to the first set of belay bolts.


Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Evenings at South Mountain

If I have a free evening to hike, I usually spend it in south mountain park, here in Phx. It's far too convenient than to seek alternatives. Despite my frequency in visits, I never regret the return. Over many years I've discovered (for myself) several places, each with their own set of activities akin to the set of obstacles found therein.


Saturday, January 14, 2012

Climbing in South Mountain, Phx, AZ

Bouldering on the T-Rex boulder off the Desert Classic Trail
V2 lieback crack:




Teddy Bear Wall Top-Roping

Krystal's first bit of outdoor climbing...


 
 


 


Thursday, January 5, 2012

Ouray Ice Climbing - Ouray, CO

Placeholder for Ouray pics!


Stay tuned!



Me climbing a bit of WI4 with some fun stemming and hooking:



Friday, December 23, 2011

Stoney Point Climbing

Placeholder for Stoney point climbing.



Stay tuned....

Thursday, December 22, 2011

Mt. Williamson - First Attempt

My climbing partner in crime, Mark, and I set off to the Eastern Sierras with our sights on two of Cali's finest offerings: Mt. Williamson and Mt. Tyndall. In this early season attempt, we were hoping for some good winter conditions to test our mettle against. Thus far, the precip this winter has been dismal... in other words, nonexistent.
As per usual, we worked our mandatory half-workdays that Friday and then split. for the mountains. Coming from Phoenix, my attempt at beating LA traffic failed, despite the early start. Tack on another 1.5 hours. I rolled into Lone Pine around 8pm, got our permit, some quick food and then set out to meet Mark in Independence. I reunited with Mark, we split a beer at some quaint lil' French coffee shop, convinced a really sweet Indian lady to make us subs after-hours, and then drove off into the darkness.



We both took turns drifting our front-wheel drive cars along the dirt roads.
KEEP READING...

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Mt. Williamson & Mt Tyndall (Eastern Sierras)



Check out that beautiful sight! In two days my climbing brotha, Mark, and I will be trekking deep into them Sierras and climbing the west face of Williamson and the north rib of Tyndall. It shall be an epic 4 day backcountry trip. Stay tuned!

Thursday, August 25, 2011

Mt. Rainier - Kautz with Our Pants Down - Aug 18-20, 2011

The Low Down...

Wednesday, August 17:
  • 8:30 pm  - Fly from Phoenix to Seattle
  • 11:30 pm - Arrive at SEA-TAC
Thursday, August 18
  • 12:30 am  - Finally secure bags, catch shuttle to shmotel, meet up with amigos
  • 3:00 am - Attempt to fall asleep after sifting through gear, unpacking
  • 3:30 am - Mark arrives at shmotel, hugs, banter, another attempt at falling asleep on the flimsy pullout
  • 8:00 am - Wake up, jump out of bed. Coffee. Gear check. Pack again
  • 10:00 am - Begin caravan out to Rainier NP (I'm sorry, "Rainler" as google calls it)
  • 11:30 am - Stop for breakfast at grocery
  • 1:00 pm - Arrive at Rainler NP, begin unpacking cars, gearing up. Permit shenanigans with Rangers.
  • 2:30 pm - Set out from Paradise (5400'). Turn right, not left and head wrong way up skyline trail
  • 3:30 pm - Realize error and traverse through the "protected" alpine meadows, up the hill to Glacier Vista
  • 5:00 pm - Reach Glacier Vista point (6280'), quick break, then drop into Nisqually Glacier
  • 7:00 pm - Reach The Fan - Couloir leading up to Wilson Bench (6800')
  • 9:00 pm - Sun goes down, continue trekking up Wilson Glacier, turn left towards west unnamed ridge
  • 10:00 pm - First real crevasse encounter, head south to end-run the crevasse while continuing up ridge
  • 11:00 pm - Top out on west ridge of Wilson. Begin probing for crevasses, digging camp, melting water
  • 12:30 pm - Finish camp, eat dinner, sleep at camp I (7400')
Friday, August 19
  • 8:00 am  - Wake up. First glimpse of existing, pre-dug camp site 200m down ridge - UGH!
  • 8:30 am - Begin breakfast, breakdown camp, gear-up
  • 10:00 am - Set out up ridge
  • 10:30 am - 7800' - Climber (Name hidden to protect the "innocent") drops helmet while adjusting gear. Helmet slides 400 vertical feet down the glacier, missing 2 crevasses before settling on a flat part of Wilson Glacier.
  • 11:00 am - Helmet Rescue Effort - Mark and I set out on separate rope, without bags, only pickets, slings, and prusiks.Group continues up ridge
  • 12:00 pm - Finally meet up with group after successful recovery. Rob owes us 40 beers each. Ooops! Haha.... Group continues up ridge
  • 12:30 pm - Group reaches end of snow on ridge. Must cross up and over ridge to Van Trump Glacier side. Horrible, horrible scree & loose boulder slides. Set series of anchors to belay climbers up onto ridge. 
  • 1:30 pm - Group continues up Van Trump snowfields, cross snow under rockband at 8700' to west. Continue up steep slopes on west side of the Castle.
  • 3:00 pm - Pass the Castle, continue up to Turtle snowfield
  • 5:30 pm - Reach SE corner of the Turtle. Continue up east side in giant sun cups
  • 8:00 pm - Find place to dig camp in middle of Turtle snowfield (10,400'). Entire team has run out of water. Sun is setting, air gets cold very fast. Begin digging platform through hard snow and ice
  • 9:00 pm - Finish camp, begin eating. Everyone in bed by 10pm. Group discussion about summit day - Group decides not to pursue the summit. Promises of 5 quart homemade lasagna when we return by Dave's fiance is mainly to blame.
  • 10:00 pm - Everyone to bed - hard night at altitude
Saturday, August 20
  • 7:00 am - Alpine Start! Not even close ;-). Wake up, boil water, breakfast.
  • 8:00 am  - Begin packing up gear - Mark and I decide to head to ice chute for some climbing
  • 8:30 am - Side trip up the Turtle to check out the Kautz Ice Chute with Mark
  • 10:00 am - Top out at 11,000' on the Turtle. We decide to turn back in order to help the group on the descent -- Turns out to be long day.
  • 11:30 am - Camp is packed up, everyone is geared up. We begin the descent back to Paradise
  • 12:15 pm - Exit the Turtle
  • 1:30 pm - Get through tricky sections on upper Van Trump snowfields / rock areas
  • 2:30 pm - Get onto west ridge of Wilson Glacier
  • 3:00 pm - Quick stop at camp I to change, eat, drink
  • 4:00 pm - Reach bottom of Wilson Glacier
  • 4:30 pm - Top of Fan
  • 5:00 pm - Bottom of Fan, Begin crossing Nisqually
  • 6:00 pm - Reach end of Nisqually, begin heading up to Glacier Vista
  • 7:20 pm - Reach Paradise Trailhead and parking lot. End.

I will post a more thorough trip report, especially detailing the fun times of glacier navigating in the dark, building multiple tent sites from scratch in the middle of the night, dropping helmet and helmet-rescue shenanigans and much much more...

MORE PICTURES . . .

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Climbing the Kautz! Rainier 2011 - Part Duex


[ From Mt. Rainier's Ranger's climbing conditions blog ]



We've set up a strong team to head back to Seattle's infamous volcano with my fellow climbing buddy, Mark.

Tonight, we leave for Seattle!

Tomorrow, we set out across the Nisqually & Wilson glaciers to first camp

Friday, we climb high to Camp Hazard up at 11,000ish ft.

Saturday, we head up the Kautz ice chute and hopefully top out at the Columbia Crest!

Should be fun. Can't wait.

Instead of carb-loading, I'm bean-loading... Tonnnns of Chipotle burritos...

Love you all, Cheers!

--Ben

Monday, June 20, 2011

Mount Rainier via Dissapointment Cleaver - June 17-19, 2011

My ninja self with Sam and Lee atop the highest, most heavily glaciated volcano in the lower 48!



Summary Recap:
Day 1 (Friday)
  • Paradise (5,400 ft) to Camp Muir (10,080 ft)
  • Blistering hot ascent on the Muir snowfield
Day 2 (Saturday)
  • Camp Muir to High Camp (Ingraham Flats, Ingraham Glacier: 11,200 ft)
  • Overnight snowstorm turns back other group summit pushes
  • Storm continues throughout morning: 3-4 fresh inches of snow
  • High winds continue throughout Saturday night
Day 3 - Summit Day (Sunday / Fathers Day)
  • High Camp to Summit (14,411 ft)
  • Wake up 12:30 am, breakfast, prep for final climb
  • On glacier by 2 am
  • Ascend Disappointment Cleaver and traverse the crevasses of Emmons Glacier
  • Columbia Crest crater rim at 6:55 am
  • Summit at 7:25 am
  • Back to high camp by 10 am
  • Pack up high camp, head back to Camp Muir at 11 am
  • Lunch at Muir, leave at noon
  • Descend Muir snowfield to Paradise
  • Arrive at Paradise at 2:15 pm

KEEP READING...

Monday, May 16, 2011

Scoping, Bushwacking, Recon Efforts to Rapp the Lion Head - May 16, 2011

For years, I have been eying a prominent rock-face in South Mountain park, just south of Phoenix. It's nearby one of my go-to trail-running routes that I frequent and until this year, I definitely did not have the skill set to thoroughly explore it. Now that I'm fairly at ease out on the rope, I feel like my wish-list of places to explore just scaled itself up by orders and orders of magnitude. Ah man, I love it!

 

Saturday, May 14, 2011

Spelunking in a Lava Tube and Prusiking in the Pines - May 14, 2011

With a late start at heading up north on a Saturday, Krystal and I exercised our Humphreys contingency plan. We still headed up to Flagstaff, but instead of bagging the peak, we opted to explore the Lava River Cave and hang out in the Coconino backcountry for the afternoon.

The Lava River Cave (officially "Lave River Cave" as suggested by the signage below), is apparently a old underground lava flow that cooled on its upper, lower and side walls allowing what was left in the center flow through it, leaving nearly a mile-long void. It's amazingly pristine in how well it formed, almost resembling a half-tube volume shape of a New York subway.

We donned our flashlights, gloves and jackets and crawled into the void... along with 80-thousand other people it seemed :-/ Quite the popular attraction, I guess...


Saturday, April 23, 2011

Tonto Natural Brige Hike - April 23, 2011

The lady and I took a much-needed drive up north to get away for the day. We opted to explore the Tonto Natural Bridge area, just northwest of Payson, AZ. It's essentially this huge naturally-carved bridge made up of entirely travertine -- apparently one of a kind (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tonto_Natural_Bridge).



Monday, April 18, 2011