Scoping, Bushwacking, Recon Efforts to Rapp the Lion Head - May 16, 2011

For years, I have been eying a prominent rock-face in South Mountain park, just south of Phoenix. It's nearby one of my go-to trail-running routes that I frequent and until this year, I definitely did not have the skill set to thoroughly explore it. Now that I'm fairly at ease out on the rope, I feel like my wish-list of places to explore just scaled itself up by orders and orders of magnitude. Ah man, I love it!

 

During the past few months, I have been making an effort to explore the area off-trail, initially starting with some bouldering and scrambling up the drainage that leads to this unique collection of rocks. In the recent month, I've devoted a few trips to scope out some anchoring points for decent rappels of the face. One of these failed attempts was complicated by a swarm of bees that literally chased me back to the trail. So I opted for some windier days to head back, assuming a strong breeze usually curbs the bee activity. My second trip out was successful, minus my negligence to bring my helmet with me. On the way down, I even found a series of bolts, placed along the west face of the rock. Success! In researching this area, I still have yet to stumble upon any beta regarding climbing routes. The bolts must be remnants from years past, when people were a little more liberal in placing routes.

Roooooope!   Doubling-up my anchor, using a 10ft webbing loop w/ quicklink and a slung bolt.

It sure doesn't look that far, but that's a good 120 feet down to those trees. Lovin' it.

There is a series of 2-3 platforms, depending on where you come down, with the top pitch being nearly vertical.

There's a bolted route just beyond my left there. Finally at the bottom and looking up the route.

Ah man, why did I leave so soon??? I forgot we had a full-moon tonight!