My friend Ace and I set out on a Saturday to tackle the 3-pitch gem of the Superstitions known as the Hand or Praying Hands. Although it consists of relatively simple moves the whole way, the exposure seen from both sides of this arête is overwhelming at times. Rope management is a plus on this narrow pinnacle with zero real estate. It's definitely an exciting climb from start to finish.
"Razors Edge" - 3 pitches, grade II, 5.6
(Left Pic borrowed from
HikeAZ) [ Info from
climbing.com ]
Sport route with supplemented trad gear if needed.
We used 2 friends, Size 1 and 0.5 C4 Camelots to reduce runout on two pitches.
First pitch was mostly class 4 and we free-soloed up to the first set of belay bolts.
Looking up at the wall we would eventually rapp. This is a little over 150 feet -- our two 50m rope rappel (no fancy dressing at the knot either) when weighted at the bottom had about 2m left to spare. There's also a fun keeper than one has to negotiate over to get all the way down. The route, seen at the right, begins about 50 feet lower, around this face. There's no good places to protect, but it's only class 4 scrambling at most.
Looking up the thumb and the eventual index finger. Ace wasted no time in hopping onto the rock.
A few smearing moves to mantle over the first 5 ft section, then an immediate turn left into a funneling crack / chimney. At first we topped out with a dropoff on the other side. You have to climb up to the saddle at the left of this crack to find the first set of belay bolts and the official start of the route.
Once set on belay, Ace took first lead and quickly worked his way up this rocky section with great friction.
A few fun moves to get over the first vertical section to a spot where he can belay me up. We used the 0.5 cam, just below the spot where Ace is perched, though it was more for peace of mind than anything.
Once I was to where Ace had set up belay, I slingshot up the next scramble. I don't remember many pitons here until you get to below the Chicken ledge belay station. Just don't fall here.
Once atop the aptly-named Chicken Ledge, Ace joined me. We were careful to manage the second rope that we were dragging separately from the belay rope (for the eventual rappel).
Here's a perspective on Chicken Ledge. 100+ ft off to the south side. Even further of a drop to the north.
Finally it was time for the cruxy section of the climb, the final spine up the finger. Though the moves are only rated to 5.6, the airy exposure sure does numbers on one's mind. This part of the route is protected fairly well with old pitons and bolts.
It does seem to go on for a while. Stopping to rest about 30 feet from the top.
Long way down! Check out Ace's straddling stance on the "saddle"
Mmmmm, vintage. Tasty.
Once atop the spine, the rock drops into a small crevice with a nice fistable crack to get up the final 10 feet or so. I placed the 1-C4 here since there hadn't been a bolt for quite some time. Eventually it walked back and got jammed, so be careful, maybe use a smaller size.
Shyeah! Made it! Ace took his turn retracing my steps and quickly made the top. For the first 2/3's of this last pitch it was hard to see him and the rope drag got somewhat bad.
Perched atop the Hand
The rappel station at the top. Two solid bolts and bomber rapp rings to use.
Not much room for us and the ropes.
It's a long rappel down this 150' face. We both made sure to enjoy it!
It took us 3.25hrs to complete the route -- we both think we could certainly blow through it quicker next time now knowing what to expect and where to find the start of the route, though that definitely added to the excitement of on-sighting.
What is this? But of course... celebratory ales. Here, here.
Ace, you rock, buddy.
Looking out at Mesa / Phoenix, aka the Valley of Sun
No comments:
Post a Comment